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ZootalawsMember
Which build did you use?
You should be using the edge 101.02 branch.
Worked fine for me with a Due clone.
You haven’t given much to go on.
ZootalawsMemberIs the Goode originating on the Pi?
If so, I would use Chilipeppr or similar web-based sender with the Serial Port JSON Server running on the Pi: https://github.com/chilipeppr/serial-port-json-server
Even if you don’t want to use the chilipeppr interface, spjs will manage timing and flow of Gcode to the TinyG.
If you are only using the Pi as a network interface to the TinyG, then it gets even better, as you can send to spjs across the network from the originating computer, whatever it is.
John Lauer wrote both and the spjs has been adopted by many other developers to handle serial Comms, including the latest Arduino IDE – it’s a very well-proven solution.
Other ways could be to use octoprint on the Pi, set up a websockets server, remote Gcode sender like UGS: https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender
ZootalawsMemberThat has nothing to do with TinyG – it only expects text code strings.
When you ‘open’ a file in Coolterm, its expecting a Coolterm connection file that tells Coolterm how to configure its ports, speeds, etc.
You need to use ‘send text file’ under ‘connections’.
ZootalawsMemberWhy don’t you just use the grbl g38.2 probe command?
That’s exactly what it’s there for.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by Zootalaws.
ZootalawsMemberYou will need the wiring pinout of your vfd, and you will need the wining pin out of the TinyG.
Do you have those?
ZootalawsMemberThe G54 instruction tells the controller which coordinate system to use
$g54x=0 : Set G54 to be the same as the machine coordinate system
In other words, the direction the z-axis moves is the same as you set for the system.
ZootalawsMemberAnd… high microstepping ain’t it’s all cracked up to be.
Unless your mechanicals are so coarse that you can’t get the resolution you need is the only reason I would go so high – for micrometer accurate placement on a pick and place or hundredths of a mill accuracy – at this level of hobby controller, it’s often easier to change drive pulleys or screw if that’s the case.
Going from a 20 to 10 tooth pulley or halving the pitch of your screw is pretty easy and does the same thing, although not without some cost.
I have (literally) hundreds of drive pulleys in machined aircraft alloy in tens of different sizes if you want to play around.
ZootalawsMemberYes, certainly the TinyG can replace your controller in your K40, and do a far better job.
You would be better off using the existing drivers, as they are already wired in and it makes it a much easier job.
This guide should get you started with the physical side: https://jtechphotonics.com/?page_id=6798
From a tool chain perspective, you are probably using one of the Chinese laser apps that expects to see a controller it recognises. I suspect getting it to recognise a grbl-based controller is going to be difficult, so don’t bother – go with a more modern app such as LaserGRBL or Inkscape with a plug-in.
This should help you along: https://hackaday.com/2017/06/10/drop-in-controller-for-ebay-k40-laser-engraver-gets-results/
The biggest problem you will face is getting used to a new tool chain, but it isn’t hard, once you work out what parts of a new app are the same as your Chinese one.
Have a look at those two articles and come back with any questions.
ZootalawsMemberLate to the party…
John Lauer has set up a simple way to modify chilipeppr, to create your own modules, etc. and has documented the process well.
Forking it to add 32-step support should be straightforward.
If you find chilipeppr claustrophobic, turn off the bits you don’t want – it’s eminently tailorable.
You might want to look at creating a custom workspace, or look at the TinyG tablet workspace for some inspiration: http://chilipeppr.com/tinygtablet
ZootalawsMemberThe easiest way is to hold a pair of wires together and turn the stepper – if it’s hard to turn, that’s a pair, if not, try another pairing.
It doesn’t matter which wire goes where, as long as they are a matching pair connected to a matching A or B of ports.
425oz steppers are going to stretch a TinyG – keep an eye on the temperatures. Be prepared to purchase external drivers – they are cheap enough, nowadays.
ZootalawsMemberLOL @ shipping – I live in the third world and am still waiting on stuff I ordered in October 🙂
The TinyG is modular, in that you can plug in external drivers and slave two (or more) TinyG together to give as many axis/control points as you need (for assembly, pick and place, etc.).
But, it looks like 32/64 bit is the way forward and the TinyG is going to run out of puff in the future. Still, it’s a cheap enough board that it can always be put to use in another project later on…
I have a number of controllers, including TinyG, Marlin on the same Xmega board as the Tiny, Smoothieboard, GRBL, and I reach for the TinyG more times than not.
I’ve got a 4-axis and 5-axis Smoothieboard I haven’t even used, despite it’s connectivity and axis advantages – the motor drivers are the same as your GRBL shield, and I’m not ready to buy some Longshine-type drivers yet. The Tiny works well with my Ox-style Openbuilds machine using belt drive. Maybe if I move to leadscrew I will want more power, but I mostly carve and cut acrylic and ply, so I don’t need a whole heap of power.
I did note that the development seems to have tailed off on the G2, for whatever reason, and that’s why I haven’t bothered doing anything with it.
The last commit on git was over a month ago and the one before was six weeks before that, then a month before – not a bleeding-edge active project, by the looks.
If I was being asked… I would look at one of the Smoothie boards – there’s a tonne of them out there that offer all sorts of options.
MKS, the maker of hundreds of thousands of Marlin boards has one that’s pretty attractive at Euro 45 for 5 axis using the DRV8825 driver (a step above the DRV8818 in the Tiny). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MKS-SBASE-V1-3-S-32bit-Armplatform-Smooth-control-board-open-source-MCU-LPC1768-support-Ethernet/32823546897.html
It will be my next controller, I think.
ZootalawsMemberYou can use a GRBL shield – pin compatible. Just watch out for the voltages – the DUE is 3.3V only.
I would use a DUE prototyping shield – cheap and easy to get started on, and some polulu-type drivers. Again, cheap and easy to use, although if you’ve bought a driver/stepper set, no bother. For safety’s sake I would use opto-couplers – easy and cheaper than buying another $45 board.
Once you have that sorted out, you can go for a more permanent solution.
I have all the above components, so if you get stuck, give me a shout and I’ll see if I can help – but, we’re just about to look for and move to a new house in the three weeks before we head off to Korea for the olympics – a busy time, so it may have to wait till the first week of March.
ZootalawsMemberDownside to using the Due? You can’t use a Raspberry Pi running SJPS to run Chilipeppr remotely as there is no USB-B port on the Due.
But, You can use a FTDI-USB module and talk to it through serial, via the Pi.
I will hook up an ESP8266 running as a transparent bridge instead, although my transparent bridge iteration doesn’t have John Lauer’s nice buffering… I need to work on that.
ZootalawsMemberPPS – you don’t need to clone the git.
You do need the TinyG updater app installed, as it uses ‘bossac’ to program the Due.
My copy is in ~/Downloads so the path is: /~Downloads/TinyG-Updater.app/Contents/Resources
Edit the .sh file:
sudo nano DueFromOSX.sh
In the line: FLASH_TOOLS= replace the path with the path above (assuming you downloaded the TinyG updater app to Downloads.
The first 3 lines of the script should read:
#!/bin/bash FLASH_TOOLS="~/Downloads/TinyG-Updater.app/Contents/Resources" BOSSAC=$FLASH_TOOLS"/tools_darwin/bossac/bin/bossac"
- This reply was modified 6 years, 10 months ago by Zootalaws.
ZootalawsMemberI omitted: unplug the Due after programming and connect the native USB port, then connect using a terminal program using 115200,8,N,1. I use CoolTerm.
tinyg [mm] ok> [fb] firmware build 78.02 [fv] firmware version 0.97 [cv] configuration version 5.00 [hp] hardware platform 3.00 [hv] hardware version 0.00 [id] TinyG ID 02130215d40 [ja] junction acceleration 100000 mm [ct] chordal tolerance 0.0100 mm [sl] soft limit enable 0 [mt] motor idle timeout 2.00 Sec [pdt] pause dwell time 0 uSec [ej] enable json mode 0 [0=text,1=JSON] [jv] json verbosity 2 [0=silent,1=footer,2=messages,3=configs,4=linenum,5=verbose] [js] json serialize style 1 [0=relaxed,1=strict] [tv] text verbosity 1 [0=silent,1=verbose] [qv] queue report verbosity 0 [0=off,1=single,2=triple] [sv] status report verbosity 1 [0=off,1=filtered,2=verbose] [si] status interval 250 ms [gpl] default gcode plane 0 [0=G17,1=G18,2=G19] [gun] default gcode units mode 1 [0=G20,1=G21] [gco] default gcode coord system 1 [1-6 (G54-G59)] [gpa] default gcode path control 2 [0=G61,1=G61.1,2=G64] [gdi] default gcode distance mode 0 [0=G90,1=G91] tinyg [mm] ok>
It literally took me as long to do as it took to write those two posts – I had a Due on my desk and had never done this before, so it’s not rocket science.
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