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Zootalaws
Member“Boy is my face red. Youβall were right. The CNC was behaving as designed. I have a lot to learn, but maybe at the top of the list, now not to panic.”
No reasons to be embarrassed, there’s a shed load of documentation, but it’s not necessarily organised in an easily-accessible way.
Like a lot of the controllers in the 3D printing world, this one is extremely configurable and the developers have put a lot of thought into functionality, but you need to dig it out π
Don’t hesitate to ask, there’s plenty of people willing to lend a hand and we’ve all been through the same sort of problems.
Zootalaws
Member“What you quote is correct. What did you expect? Think of hitting a limit switch as a fatal, non-recoverable error.”
While your reply was technically correct for general operation, it isn’t for homing and it wasn’t exactly the kind of help we would expect from a mod, nor was it any sort of help to a novice stuck on a problem.
I understood perfectly what his problem was and how to fix it, what you did was to confuse and be a bit pedantic.
Switches are switches and can be used both as limit and homing switches, depending on mode of operation. If you’re not aware of that, you might want to reconsider your role as an expert. It was bloody clear from his post what he was trying to do, yet you talked down to him and actually pointed him in the least helpful direction you could.
Many questions are asked on here that I don’t respond to, feeling there are more experienced members able to better answer them, working on the premise that if I can’t give an informed answer that helps, wait and see if someone else can.
Maybe you should think about what value you are adding before you post?
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This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by
Zootalaws.
Zootalaws
MemberYou need to set them as homing and limit, as the wiki article states:
https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/Homing-and-Limits-Description-and-Operation
The following switch settings are supported:
0=Disabled – Switch closures will have no effect. All unused switch pins must be set to Disabled.
1=Homing-only – Switch is active during homing but has no effect otherwise
2=Limits-only – Switch is not active in homing but will act as a kill switch during normal operation.
3=Homing-and-limits – Switch is active during homing and acts as kill switch during normal operation.
The following settings are used for switch configuration.-
This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by
Zootalaws.
Zootalaws
MemberHumming would indicate a lack of current. The range of motion of the adjuster is from approx 8 o’clock to 4 o’clock, so around 270degrees. You shouldn’t need to turn further than 1-2 o’clock to get things moving. If you have turned it past 4 o’clock, there’s a reasonable chance you’ve broken your adjuster.
Did you use a voltmeter to confirm? . Did you follow this document? https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/TinyG-Tuning
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This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by
Zootalaws.
Zootalaws
MemberIt very much depends on the PSU as to whether it will accept operating in series or parallel.
Some will work in parallel, some won’t – the same that won’t will work in series, the ones that did work in parallel won’t work in series – some will work in both and some will work in neither.
It depends π
One thing that is sure, for it to work it MUST be wired like this:
Zootalaws
MemberI’ve used a Super-PID before – great unit. I asked the same question of the manufacturer way back when.
The instructions are clear: “Super-PID can directly accept a speed control voltage of 0v to 5v ”
So, it can directly accept between 0 and 5V – 3.3V is between 0 and 5V.
You won’t have a problem.
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This reply was modified 9 years, 5 months ago by
Zootalaws.
Zootalaws
MemberFWIW, the process I use to calibrate is:
Set mm/rev to 60.
Move gantry 60mm
Measure actual distance (55.91)
Take 60 and divide by 55.91 = 1.073
Multiply 60 by 1.073 = 64.38
Change the rev/mm to 64.38, repeat.
The last time I did this I needed three passes to get G0y100 to equate to 99.99mm actual movement. Now, it seems to go backwards and forwards and I have done it about a hundred times and gotten different results each time.
Could it be something mechanical?
Zootalaws
MemberI feel it’s a little light…
One reason for making it in the first place was the time it took to print the ‘other’ V8 carrier – over 2 hours on my friend’s Prusa i3 – so I reduced the thickness and made the arms quite thin.
The frame is strong enough for the job and is reinforced by the PCB and the fan, but there’s a bit more flex than I was hoping for (I wanted some flex, as a shock absorber/buffer, but it’s very bouncy).
And I think the dimensions given in the wiki page are wrong – my model is exactly the right size, according to the size of the PCB given – 4.0″ x 4.15″ with holes .15″ inboard of the edge. But when I came to assemble it, three holes lined up exactly right and one was off. It was easy enough to push the arms to the right place, but it should have lined up properly.
Do you know of a technical drawing (preferably in mm, rather than some ancient method of distance measurement) of the PCB I can check the dimensions against?
Zootalaws
MemberZootalaws
MemberIf you don’t have a 3D printer, what’s the use of asking?
Speed, quality,’surface’ are all dependent on your machine, your filament, your extruder, etc.
I don’t have a printer – my mate does. It took about half an hour. The quality is ok. It is strong.
My new printer will be more than twice as fast as his dinosaur – using geared shafts, TinyG, BondTech, E3D-V6 and CoreXY, with Nema23s and a fully carbon-fibre gantry/shaft setup.
They won’t be cheap – the extruder alone is over $100. The carbon shafts, carbon plate, composite bearings are another $50. The hot end is about $90. Electronics another $200… it’s like cars. How fast can you afford to go? π
Zootalaws
MemberMy suggestion?
Buy a Smoothieboard – similar idea to the TinyG, executed much better. I haven’t benchmarked them yet – mySmoothie hasn’t arrived – but they ported from the same place and have similar ideas as to how to handle acceleration, etc.
It already has all the functions you are looking for – SD Card, etc. and is cheaper.
I have a couple of TinyG’s, but have rapidly come to understand and be disappointed in the limitations. The Smoothie has everything the TinyG has, and more, and is a lot more friendly to use.
I’m done with TinyG and their poor documentation, flaky software options, lack of features and relatively expensive price. I will probably use the ones I have in a 3D printer and get another Smoothie 4XC for my CNC router.
Zootalaws
MemberIt is – I thought it was a controller, as it has PWM, stop switches, end stops, etc.
But… it uses a DB-25 connector. Wiring it to the TinyG would be a real pain.
The M542/M550 would be an easy install.
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This reply was modified 9 years, 9 months ago by
Zootalaws.
Zootalaws
MemberLook at the contents of https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/blob/master/firmware/tinyg/settings/
Zootalaws
MemberSo $$ isn’t the full parameter list?
Needs further investigation…
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This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by
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