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You can check runout off the machine – it may be that your ‘wobble’ is coming from any or all of a number of places: the bearings in the spindle, a cheap collet or a less-than-straight bit. Wobble isn’t really an artefact of the router gantry, unless the gantry is loose or the spindle mount is loose.
If the spindle isn’t straight in its mount, or if the gantry isn’t square, there won’t necessarily be any wobble, but the cut won’t be 100% perpendicular. My first build didn’t exhibit unacceptable runout at the tip of the bit, but it was clear that the cut wasn’t 100% perpendicular – easy enough to check, just plunge some holes using a small bit and the hole, viewed from above, will be slightly oval.
With runout, the hole will be larger than the bit, as the runout will be likely to be equal throughout 360deg. Easily checked by pushing the bit through the hole by hand – it should be a friction fit.
If the runout is more to one side, that’s more indicative of a problem with accuracy of the mount.
Does that make sense?
You don’t mention what spindle you are using.
I’ve used a few, from a cheap Chinese air-cooled to a more expensive Chinese water-cooled with Japanese bearings to a German air-cooled. They all exhibit ‘some’ runout, but the water-cooled and German spindles were negligible for my application, which was cutting ply and mdf – I got more tear-out from the bit than I got inaccuracy from the runout.
I make audio devices and have been contracting out the cutting of my faceplates (by laser), but with more practice cutting alloy (to get the rate and feed right), I would be confident that my German spindle, with the right bit, would give me an acceptable result.
But, I would be wary of cutting precision-fit components down to small fractions of a mm. Within half a mm is well within spec of what I need.
If your runout is less than the accuracy you need, it’s acceptable.
“What you quote is correct. What did you expect? Think of hitting a limit switch as a fatal, non-recoverable error.”
While your reply was technically correct for general operation, it isn’t for homing and it wasn’t exactly the kind of help we would expect from a mod, nor was it any sort of help to a novice stuck on a problem.
I understood perfectly what his problem was and how to fix it, what you did was to confuse and be a bit pedantic.
Switches are switches and can be used both as limit and homing switches, depending on mode of operation. If you’re not aware of that, you might want to reconsider your role as an expert. It was bloody clear from his post what he was trying to do, yet you talked down to him and actually pointed him in the least helpful direction you could.
Many questions are asked on here that I don’t respond to, feeling there are more experienced members able to better answer them, working on the premise that if I can’t give an informed answer that helps, wait and see if someone else can.
Maybe you should think about what value you are adding before you post?
You need to set them as homing and limit, as the wiki article states:
https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/Homing-and-Limits-Description-and-Operation
The following switch settings are supported:
0=Disabled – Switch closures will have no effect. All unused switch pins must be set to Disabled.
1=Homing-only – Switch is active during homing but has no effect otherwise
2=Limits-only – Switch is not active in homing but will act as a kill switch during normal operation.
3=Homing-and-limits – Switch is active during homing and acts as kill switch during normal operation.
The following settings are used for switch configuration.Humming would indicate a lack of current. The range of motion of the adjuster is from approx 8 o’clock to 4 o’clock, so around 270degrees. You shouldn’t need to turn further than 1-2 o’clock to get things moving. If you have turned it past 4 o’clock, there’s a reasonable chance you’ve broken your adjuster.
Did you use a voltmeter to confirm? . Did you follow this document? https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/TinyG-Tuning
It very much depends on the PSU as to whether it will accept operating in series or parallel.
Some will work in parallel, some won’t – the same that won’t will work in series, the ones that did work in parallel won’t work in series – some will work in both and some will work in neither.
It depends 🙂
One thing that is sure, for it to work it MUST be wired like this:
I’ve used a Super-PID before – great unit. I asked the same question of the manufacturer way back when.
The instructions are clear: “Super-PID can directly accept a speed control voltage of 0v to 5v ”
So, it can directly accept between 0 and 5V – 3.3V is between 0 and 5V.
You won’t have a problem.
