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ZootalawsMember
What are your $aam and $cam settings?
You can move rotational axes in two modes: standard (degrees) and radius (linear).
In standard mode, you tell it how many degrees, in radial mode, how far to move.
Are all axes changing rate or just Z? What’s your feed rate maximum set to? What’s your travel minimum, travel maximum set to for your rotating axes?
“Velocity max and feed rate are in degrees per minute and behave as per RS274 NGC v3 feed rate definitions”
NIST doc RS274: https://ws680.nist.gov/publication/get_pdf.cfm?pub_id=823374
A feed rate of 1000 would give you 16.66 degrees/second or ~21 seconds for a full rotation.
ZootalawsMemberEarthing problem
ZootalawsMemberWithout knowing anything about your configuration, type of stop switch, etc.
Could it be that it’s being triggered by induction, movement or similar?
An easy test on such a small piece is to disconnect your stops and manually zero, then run your gcode again. (Unscrew the terminals at the TinyG)
I don’t use CNCjs – there are better senders.
ZootalawsMemberYou’re welcome.
ZootalawsMemberWhat version of firmware are you running?
What does $A and $B and $C tell you?
Have you set the rotary mode? ($aam=3, $bam=3, $cam=3)
ZootalawsMemberIf you connect your vfd pwm inputs to the pwm + – on the TinyG, you can control the speed of your spindle using the TinyG.
Without knowing what vfd you have, impossible to give you more information than that
ZootalawsMemberJust connect + to pwm, – to gnd
ZootalawsMemberI use an OrangePi Zero Plus (about $20 with case, another couple of cents or so for a 12v > 5v step-down) running serial port json server with chilipeppr as my wireless interface. On the same Pi I have Laserweb/CNCWeb host and octoprint, but it took a little fettling.
I use TinyG/G2 with laser and CNC router and it is solid.
If I was going to use external drivers, I would use a Due with G2Core and appropriate shield, rather than a TinyG
- This reply was modified 6 years, 1 month ago by Zootalaws.
ZootalawsMemberEasily.
But that’s not the right question.
It’s not a matter of ‘can it’, it’s a matter of ‘how fast can it’.
With a slow enough feed, it will easily cope with hardwood and aluminium, it you might want it to run faster.
I run 340oz steppers and it works fine.
ZootalawsMemberFirstly, good job at placing your expensive electronic device on an earthed metal conductor. Bonus points for magic smoke!
Second, have you adjusted the drivers power? Have you connected that stepper to a different axis? What happened when you did that?
ZootalawsMemberNice little setup.
ZootalawsMemberI just json it from a stock file.
ZootalawsMemberNo, I meant $defa=1
In my experience, when you get weird results, it’s a good idea to go back to defaults and try with basic settings applied (motor def, direction, etc.).
ZootalawsMemberThat’s great.
TinyG are good boards, but be careful about shorts and stray voltage – anything 3.5v and up will kill it dead. I’ve got three and had no problems, but I’m careful.
It pays to put it behind something protective and give it decent cooling.
The drivers are cooled from the solder-pad side, so adding a heatsink on the top won’t do much, but they appreciate a bit of airflow across the bottom.
I’m right in the middle of seeing if I can power an orangePi zero from the fan pins, set to vmot so as to bypass the 12v regulator. If it works I will have a nice compact networked Tiny. I think I’ll put it away and call it a day.
Glad you sorted it all out.
If you need help with pwm, McGrath’s your man.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by Zootalaws.
ZootalawsMemberMotors can get hot. They are on most of the time you are processing. If you think it’s too hot, you need a good heatsink, so if you can’t mount them to a metal plate or if they’re in a confined space, consider mounting a fan and heatsink or some external powered airflow over them.
Also, make sure you haven’t just cranked up the driver pot current to max. Especially for your iteration where it’s constantly fighting the drag of the buffer, it may be that you will just have to have it powered up, but its worth going through the tuning process.
I guess you’re going to have to work out a happy medium (no pun intended) to give you smooth low-drag running while still cutting the surface.
I wonder if some form of stepper amperage draw monitoring will be useful for monitoring drag?
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