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In my experience, if your motors are energising and cannot be turned, but just make a buzzing noise, it’s because your output power is too low.
Just as an experiment, turn the adjuster to its furthest point. It won’t hurt as your motors aren’t driving a load.
There is a way of adjusting output power using a multimeter, but I’m on my phone and can’t be arsed to look for it right now
PS, it could also be incorrect wiring – worth checking the spec sheet for your motors against your wiring.
You can also add a second driver and motor.
Just take the signal feeds and get your power from your transformer.
Same signal, so in lock-step, dual power so no overloading of the Tiny and full power to the steppers rather than half. Still need to reverse the power for one motor manually.
You can balance the motors quite easily by coupling them (a piece of plastic tubing works). By utilising the brake on one motor, have the other step in 1:1 single step increments, if it’s unable to overcome the braked motor, adjust the power until it can, then reverse your test. It’s crude but reasonably accurate.
You could just use a simple contact switch just to get you going – get a length of shielded twisted pair Ethernet cable (cheap as buggery) to run and you should be fine for interference.
I started with cheap contact switches from a stripped-down 3D printer and never replaced them, because they worked fine and never glitched. I bought a bunch of optical switches – they’re still in their packet, unopened.
And before you blow up another Tiny, make an opto-electrical isolation board to run all of your external voltages through. 🙂 #hindsightoftheboltedhorse
I’m not sure what you mean by ‘two prompts’, can you elaborate?
This page explains all the commands in some detail, including $tv : https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/TinyG-Configuration-for-Firmware-Version-0.97
Do you require more detail on a specific command, other than $tv – which is simply to turn verbosity on and off, or… how much info is returned from a command: abbreviated or full message.
Enter a command with it turned off and then turned on and you can see the difference
You can check runout off the machine – it may be that your ‘wobble’ is coming from any or all of a number of places: the bearings in the spindle, a cheap collet or a less-than-straight bit. Wobble isn’t really an artefact of the router gantry, unless the gantry is loose or the spindle mount is loose.
If the spindle isn’t straight in its mount, or if the gantry isn’t square, there won’t necessarily be any wobble, but the cut won’t be 100% perpendicular. My first build didn’t exhibit unacceptable runout at the tip of the bit, but it was clear that the cut wasn’t 100% perpendicular – easy enough to check, just plunge some holes using a small bit and the hole, viewed from above, will be slightly oval.
With runout, the hole will be larger than the bit, as the runout will be likely to be equal throughout 360deg. Easily checked by pushing the bit through the hole by hand – it should be a friction fit.
If the runout is more to one side, that’s more indicative of a problem with accuracy of the mount.
Does that make sense?
You don’t mention what spindle you are using.
I’ve used a few, from a cheap Chinese air-cooled to a more expensive Chinese water-cooled with Japanese bearings to a German air-cooled. They all exhibit ‘some’ runout, but the water-cooled and German spindles were negligible for my application, which was cutting ply and mdf – I got more tear-out from the bit than I got inaccuracy from the runout.
I make audio devices and have been contracting out the cutting of my faceplates (by laser), but with more practice cutting alloy (to get the rate and feed right), I would be confident that my German spindle, with the right bit, would give me an acceptable result.
But, I would be wary of cutting precision-fit components down to small fractions of a mm. Within half a mm is well within spec of what I need.
If your runout is less than the accuracy you need, it’s acceptable.
