cmcgrath5035

JuKU
Can it be assumed that LitePlacer works well with FW 440.20 as well?

I am not at all familiar with the LitePlacer.

You have no motors mapped to A axis, what I see is XYYrZ 3 axis mapping.
Is that what you want?

The parameters appear to be for a ShapeOko2-like machine.
I took a quick look at the website, see that tinyG was the original hardware.

I am guessing you need to dig up the original LitePlacer parameter file.

As you can see, this is a very old (in CNC, anyway) thread.

Solutions include two networked tinyG’s and tinyG2 running on a DUE.

The thread above highlights potential latency issues with the networked approach, it is seldom talked about here and on-going support might be questionable (or at least slow).

The universe is moving in the direction of tinyG2 for these applications.
The added hard=ware horsepower really helps.

Start by reviewing G2 here:

https://github.com/synthetos/g2/wiki

as well as this Forum,the Ox Forum and the Chilipeppr forums.

Lots of activity

V9 and all G2 platforms are native USB interfaces, not serial over USB, interface with different drivers.

I am no USB Guru either, but will assume for the moment that your issue is in the Surface driver, not hardware. I say that because my desktop, which provided the screen scrape above, has USB3 ports. It is true that in my case, with Win10 running as a VM there is an interface layer provided by the VM into my Linux based machine that might perhaps mask the issue.

If you want to dig deeper, I might suggest you post a query at on one of these forums

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/chilipeppr

https://plus.google.com/communities/104346367498010042037

They see a bit more traffic. You could ask if anyone running Win10 is experiencing similar issues with USB3 ports and tinyG.

Another solution for you, depending on your end game, might be to buy a RaspberyPi 2 or 3 to run your SPJS app, then connect to RasPi via ethernet or WiFi. Setup is quite popular with those who want to remotely operate/monitor their machine.

I am assuming, of course, that the Surface has only USB3 hardware, ?

The FTDI chips are more or less the standard for USB to serial adapters, I would think others may have run in to this issue.

Is there anyway to force the Surface to ‘act like’ a USB2?
That would likely be the same driver, so may not help even if it exists.

Good luck and please report back if you find a resolution.
I can’t recall someone specifically using a Surface as yet.
It would be good to add hints to the wiki.
I have had similar success on an HP laptop, but again running Win10 as a VM.

In other posts, people mentioned that if it’s working, you will see the device in the device manager and hear the “new device” windows chime. Is this not true?

That is correct (I assume, not a Win user here).

In my case, tinyG is USB mini, DUE is USB micro and I have an older tinyG that is USB type B. I don’t have a Uno, so have to assume your Uno has same connector as your new tinyG.

By the way, the LED behavior you describe is correct.

My first TinyG board arrived in the mail this afternoon so I’ve been messing with it. When I add 12 volts (a little over 14v, actually) to the TinyG board, the blue power LED lights up, and the SpDir led blinks for a few seconds, then the PWM led stays lit.

Do you have any other computer available to check out your tinyG+cable combo?

When you loaded the VCP driver, did you get any messages or complaints from
Win10. I know Win10 is uber [UBER] fussy about signed drivers.

Here is what I see in Win10 Device Manager when I connect my tinyG to my Win10 VirtMach:

Is that the version you tried to load/loaded?

I believe the suggestion to turn pot all the way down assumes you are not still using the On Board driver.
I suggest you try it with one on board(leave pots as is) and one off board driver first – if they are well synched, you should be OK

You probably set the microsteps to 8 with wire strap or resistors – ?

Yoru box with fans will probably work, but be aware that thermal shutdown of the drivers, on board or off board, will likely ruin a work piece and break a bit – there is no feedback to the tinyG that the shutdown event has occurred.

That’s whats weird, the Pot on the cnc has a 24V high, Gnd and Wiper posts. But the old LabVolt setup ignored the 24V high, and ran up to an 8V charge to the Wiper. So I was wondering if there was a way to make the PWM handle that, or if I was going to have to just use a physical pot until I can get the digital pots in, wired up and programmed into the Arduino?

A wild guess would be that the pot is the ‘lower’ end of a voltage divider which includes a fixed resistor internally to 8V? If true, then a voltage between 0 and 8V on wiper post might constitute a voltage controlled speed input.
If true, level translate the PWM stream to 8V pulses, then build a LPF to extract a DC voltage proportional to the PWM duty cycle.

I find your Win10 connection issue somewhat odd as well.
My Win10 test bed is a Win10VM which I upgraded from a Win7 VM.
The upgrade ‘just ran OK’. My recollection is fuzzy on how I dealt with the unsigned driver issue.
Maybe run CoolTerm as administrator?
Or perhaps run in Win8 compatibility mode?