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cmcgrath5035
ModeratorSort of hard to tell where to start here.
What OS environment are you working in (Win, Linux, OSX)? Each has different tools available. Since you mention Coolterm, I’m sort of thinking Win_64….
A quick look says your Motor parameters are probably wrong, unless you have a very unique set of steppers and pulleys. 36.54 mm/rev is the typical NEMA 17 setting. That by itself will distort sizes.
If you want to update your FW, follow this wiki item
My suggestion – forget CAMBAM for a while and start with experimenting with moves from the command line in Coolterm, text mode. Draw in air (leave Z above the board, spindle off,
Try drawing a square, with something like
g0X10
g0Y10
g0X0
g0Y0.The Shapeoko wiki has some good start up procedures and tuning suggestions, as well as some simple G code files for the next step.
ModeratorI think that to use a stock tinyG, you will have to come up with a program that translates the required moves into GCode.
You need four independent linear moves, correct?
The default tinyG can implement three independent linear moves and three independent rotational moves,but only 4 at a time have motor drivers.
But since all movement is ultimately rotational movement of the stepper, your equations could translate between linear and rotational.
But, you need 4 moves that are interdependentPerhaps use a spreadsheet to create the four wire lengths from the X,Y coordinates of your room? At least for test purposes
One of many challenges will be figuring out how to coordinate the actions of the motors. You might have to write a movement planner, a series of gcode moves, perhaps providing some slack in some wires to facilitate moves….
Hmmm, a non-trivial challenge, unless I am missing something.
ModeratorWhile nothing is impossible, the issue with fuses and lock bits was a start up production programming issue over a year ago and not likely on a recent production unit.
Do you recall what FW version was installed on your unit when you first started working with it?
You are correct, the flashing SpDir indicates the boot loader is in charge on the tinyG.
Can you describe a bit more about the avrdude session:
Running on Win, OSX, Linux?
What version are you attempting to flash to the tinyG?
Are you sure that the file you are (attempting to) flash is a hex, not ASCII?
You should probably be flashing version 438.02, which can be downloaded fron this site:For comparison, here is a somewhat dated download and flash session, run from a Linux machine
ModeratorAh so, that helps better understand your objectives.
While you wait for Alden to stop by and comment, you might want to review the G2 project on the Wiki.G2 is TinyG ported to a Arduino Due, with specific interfaces to Stepper drivers but a lot more cycles to spare.ModeratorNot 100% clear how you propose to interact with the Espruino to tell it what to send to tinyG
ModeratorNo, the 3.3V pin on the connector is there as a reference voltage, an output.
For simply connecting Limit switches, no connection to the stand alone 3.3v pin is required.
ModeratorHigh = 3.3V
Low = GNDOne SW Term to Xmin
One SW term to GNDRepeat for Xmax
Repeat for Y and Z , min and maxSet Switch type to NC
Choose Switch function as Limit, Home, or Limit & HomeModerator3.3V and Gnd are the on-board levels
Each [XYZA] pin is pulled high by 2.7Kohms and bypassed to gnd with 0.22uF.
See for yourself:(sheet 1
ModeratorLots of folks who stop by here use Aspire, so wait a bit for experienced comments.
I do not, but would suggest you try
G Code ARCs (mm) (*.tap)I see a lot of folks who use Aspire generating G code with just linear moves, lots and lots of them.
I am assuming G Code ARCs will include G2 and G3 arc commands, which tinyG does well and minimizes really short moves.Or, better yet. try the same (short) job with both G Code(mm) and G Code ARCs (mm) and compare results.
mm or inch should work, I just personally prefer mm.
ModeratorYou should upgrade your tinyG to FW build 438.02 (or later, it is 438.02 today).
You will get:
1. Numerous enhancements, bug fixes, etc.
2. Step widths in the 4 to 6 us rangeWhat external driver are you interfacing?
Alden may have some suggestions.ModeratorI does sound like a problem with the DRV8818 device.
If you want to further troubleshoot, schematics are hereAre you sure Motor 1 is enabled?
ModeratorDo you have a V7 or V8?
If V7, Note the 5v regulator (U2) that seems only used by the ftdi device and as an output source/reference. 5V still good on your board?ModeratorI believe you need only set feed rate once unless you want to change it.
Try :
F4 g1x5 g1x10Or
g1x5f4 g1x10ModeratorMy condolences.
Sounds like a bad voltage somehow got onto the USB interfaces.
Any particular reason you had a (sacrificial) USB hub between the PC and the TinyG. Sounds like maybe that is a good idea, just in case……September 7, 2014 at 12:29 pm in reply to: Bought TinyG at Makerfair 2012 do I need to buy Atmel Programmer to update? #6726ModeratorGerard
V7 wiring is slightly different wiring; same lead names but different connector config.
I have a v7 as well, did not have a boot loader when new. You could get by without a bootloader if you have a programmer, but I’d suggest getting bootloader installed as it is easier to work with into the future.
I sent my tinyG back to Synthetos for the bootloader install as I don’t have a programmer.
By the way, FW build is parameter fb, so issuing $fb in a console would return the value. Does not really matter – you need an update for sure. Build 380.08 is quite old, significant changes/improvements in the build 4xx.yy series and fixes only being made there. I would load 438.02 (or later) when you are able.Read this wiki item
I think you’ll see that the Atmel is preferred, but you may read enough there to try what you have. I have not played in this space, so can’t be much assistance.
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