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cmcgrath5035Moderator
don’t know what a ‘Uno setup suite’ is, so I doubt I used one 🙂
I was referring to your initial How-To, post
Was I incorrect in assuming that your Arduino reference was an Arduino Uno?
So once paired, Coolterm on your PC can send the “AT+UART=230400,0,0” over the BT link to the far end HC-05. Cool.
- This reply was modified 10 years, 2 months ago by cmcgrath5035.
- This reply was modified 10 years, 2 months ago by cmcgrath5035.
cmcgrath5035ModeratorWow, I would not have expected that result, but good results are good results, right?
Happy cuttingcmcgrath5035ModeratorProgress!
What type of machine do you have? Belt, Screw, ?
When I see 35.9560 mm/rev, I assume XL belt machine.
My Shapeoko with ACME Z moves 2.1170 mm/rev, I am just curious what you might have. I have NEMA17s
Here is a link to a configuration set for my machineIf your 1.25mm/rev is correct, your setup should have A LOT of extra torque available with a NEMA23 driving it, as you are moving only about 60% per rev when compared to mine.
Do you perhaps have an alignment issue with your z axis?
Or binding at some point(s) along travel?
Really heavy spindle(assuming it is a spindle, or glue or laser)?Be aware that your motor assignment Y1,Y2,Z,X is different than mine, which is X,Y1,Z,Y2. Not an issue, just different.
I assume you can see why I prefer to communicate via dropbox (or equivalent) for configs, G code, etc.
If you plan on communicating with the form a lot, you should try one of these free cloud services.
As an alternative, you can place your configs between code tags on the forum, still harder to review due to fixed window width.
It would look something like this[fb] firmware build 435.10 [fv] firmware version 0.97 [hp] hardware platform 1.00 [hv] hardware version 8.00 [id] TinyG ID 2U2971-YTV
- This reply was modified 10 years, 2 months ago by cmcgrath5035.
cmcgrath5035ModeratorTried to update with 438.02 hex file but avrdude found a parsing error.
Tried with 435.10 and it worked. but that does not fix the problem as that was the old firmware i had beforeI have not experienced a ‘parsing error’, what OS are your running (Win, OSX, Liinux) ?
If avrdude reported a parsing error, I doubt your original 435.10 was damaged by avrdude, but not sure.Perhaps tinyG build 438.02 did not download correctly; what is it’s size on disk?
On Linux, my tingy-edge-438.02.hex is 322.9KB.cmcgrath5035ModeratorI do not have direct experience doing this, have observed others from this forum do it.
In my pre-planning to give it a try, I was focused on this Polulu modulebut only because it is the driver device family that the Synthetos guys focus on. I don’t recall others posting specific suggestions, but you could search ‘external drivers’ at at the Forum level and look for yourself
I would imagine other solutions work well too. It is important that the external module have a 4 wire interface (Step,Dir,Enable,Gnd) which is typical but not universal, and that it be 3.3V compatible.
New driver chips seem to enter the market frequently, so specific recommendations do have a lifetime or can be superseded.Yes, they are not real expensive. I tend to focus on designs that appear to support good thermal management.
cmcgrath5035ModeratorYeah, this forum tool is not particularly well suited to file attachments.
Here is one thread that may provide some hints as to what the pulse widths were and are now. I believe Alden has said that 438.02 has a much pulsewidth as he can get from the hardware.
There are some others; go to the forum level and search on ‘pulse width’
In my experience, specs on steppers are hard to find (and in many cases harder to interpret.)
cmcgrath5035ModeratorHave you tried fw 438.02 yet?
Dumps much easier to read if you use this method:
Nothing obvious in your current dump, but tweaks in the vicinity of FW 435.10 moving to 438.02 cured my hammer problem.
cmcgrath5035ModeratorHmm, I missed this comment
If I select individual line or send console command to move Z axis it works as intended but is not responding when sending gcode.
Try lowering your Z speed (F setting) and or lower Z jerk if increasing current does not work.
Compare your Gcode F setting to what you have set as the command line max velocity.Bottom line – tinyG might be trying to ramp velocity faster than the available torque (current x pulsewidth) can achieve.
cmcgrath5035ModeratorHmmm, your description of sound is similar to what I experienced a while back, what I described as ‘hammering’ in the motor.
IIRC, the issue was one of micro-step pulse width.
In my case, they were NEMA 17s 1.8 degree.If you are not running tinyG FW 438.02, upgrade and try it again.
Are your current pots turned up?
If you are there already, perhaps post a $$ parameter dump
cmcgrath5035ModeratorI just reread
I just had a thought. Could I redefine the drivers in tgfx & double up the Y driver? ie. turn it into a 3 driver board instead of a 4, then use an external driver to handle the extra load?
If the controller output is the issue (i.e. the signals driving the driver are bad) then you could, as you suggest, reconfigure tinyG as a three axis and drive two motors with three possibilities:
1. Wire two motors to the onboard driver. (this is my gShield comment)
2. Use one external ‘Polulu’ driver to drive two motors (your suggestion)
3. Use two external drivers wired to the pin headed, the controller should easily handle two external driver loads.In all three cases you have to wire one motor to move the opposite of the other.
As a generic comment, IF the controller outputs (port pins) have failed for some reason, I would expect more to fail in the near future, so you could end up replacing the tinyG anyway. A uC failure would suggest that either bad voltages made it to the uC device or some sort of device defect; both of those conditions tend to migrate around the device over time.
- This reply was modified 10 years, 2 months ago by cmcgrath5035.
cmcgrath5035ModeratorThanks mate, Hopefully I can find the necessary connections. I can’t see them being external, though. Wouldn’t the faulty chip be a problem & if I manage to get it off without damage to the rest, won’t that isolate the external pins? Now that I know the existance of the external driver I will certainly try!
I’m going to assume you have a tinyG V8. The driver inputs (uC ports) are on male pin headers and would survive a clean removal of the driver device. But, unless the driver failed shorted on these inputs, you could likely just leave it in place.
If you have a V7, the pwb has pattern for the driver input pins but no header, IIRC.I just had a thought. Could I redefine the drivers in tgfx & double up the Y driver? ie. turn it into a 3 driver board instead of a 4, then use an external driver to handle the extra load?
Early dual Y Shapeokos (NEMA 17s) controlled with gShields (3 drivers) were often configured to drive two motors from one driver. NEMA 23s will take a bit more current(crank up the pot, be mindful of device heating).
I think Zoots’ suggestion is the best, assuming you can source the external driver reasonably.
The tinyG schematics can be found here
Give a review before you start, layout is fairly straightforward.
As you will see there, the “driver led” is connected to one of the four motor output pins, so at least one output of your driver is still working.cmcgrath5035ModeratorRight now it looks like functional again now that I have the 5 volt rail repaired but the microprocessor lost it’s program or needs to be replaced.
That sounds like a tough job; I have seen it done (QFP replacement) but very difficult with the usual hobby soldering tools. I assume that you think the bootloader is gone?
cmcgrath5035ModeratorWhen you have some time, give this thread a read
The wireless alternative…..
- This reply was modified 10 years, 2 months ago by cmcgrath5035.
cmcgrath5035ModeratorYes, I thought so.
I went off and searched a bit on the HC-05, might give it a try as I have been looking at ways to safe my laptop from potentially bad voltage events as I play with DC spindles and the like.I’ll also assume that to make changes, such as your follow-on change to 230400 baud rate, one needs to go back to the Uno setup suite.
While I have your attention, what do you use as a Gcode sender?
Not clear to me that tgFX or the Chilipeppr JSON server will find the BT connection, but do have a platform to experiment with, yet.
Clearly Coolterm and Putty should be easy to connectcmcgrath5035ModeratorNice How-To.
Would it be correct to add, after this paragraph
Then, to set up for the TinyG
Set the baud rate to 115,200kb: AT+UART=115200,0,0
Change the device name: AT+NAME=TinyG
You can also change the pairing key – my Macbook defaults to 0000, but the HC-05 defaults to 1234: AT+PSWD=0000->>
Power Down Arduino + HC-05
Disconnect HC-05 from Arduino and connect to tinyG
Power up tinyG
Connect to tinyG/HC-05 from Host computer (CoolTerm, etc) -
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