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yawstickMember
Curious if you came up with anything on this?
yawstickMemberSounds like your Z axis might be too heavy.
February 27, 2018 at 4:16 pm in reply to: 3d Printing with Tinyg ( rotational axis A trouble ) #10882yawstickMemberI originally envisioned your extruder pump as a screw in a barrel type pump. I had to google yours to see what you meant. I would think that type of pump would naturally have a bit of a pulse to the output when running at a continuous speed. Do you have a link to it? How many steps required for a full revolution?
Is it possible to remap the motor outputs so that you could swap A & Z to different driver chips.
Have you tried just making just one vase form to see if it still happens in the same place in Z?
February 27, 2018 at 12:48 pm in reply to: 3d Printing with Tinyg ( rotational axis A trouble ) #10878yawstickMemberI started the post above before I had seen whitecloud’s most recent post… thought I could edit it but it appears not. Added this so it would be more clear that I was responding to cmcgrath5035 suggestions. I also wonder if you’ve had this issue from the beginning or it developed along the way.
February 27, 2018 at 10:09 am in reply to: 3d Printing with Tinyg ( rotational axis A trouble ) #10877yawstickMemberI would go along with that suggestion… in the extreme make your pump speed constant and vary only the x,y, speed… to produce the irregular effect… otherwise you have about exceeded my ability to contribute other than to observe… it is an interesting project. I am curious about the pump stroke… does the stepper for A axis come to a stop in the cycle or just slow down. If so it seems the jerk could be a factor unless you’ve overridden it somehow. If not it would seem worth experimenting with… as if it works as described would help create the fat in center deposit without having to create it in the program.
You could also experiment with making A, a fucntion of distance traveled in X,Y. and introduce some jitter into that to avoid or reduce the condition of the droplets stacked exactly on top of one another.
I realize that’s not addressing whats causing your issue… but any fix is a good fix 😉February 25, 2018 at 2:58 pm in reply to: 3d Printing with Tinyg ( rotational axis A trouble ) #10871yawstickMemberInteresting… just looking at the pics it appears to be related to the size of the vase… meaning as it gets smaller in the middle section… it appears the ratios change between the axes. There are lot of unknowns here… it appears that each stroke of the pump is small at the beginning and end… and fat in the middle of the stroke. Is that by design or the nature of the pump. Without seeing it in real time… kind of shooting in the dark. Probably shooting in the dark regardless 😉
February 22, 2018 at 9:58 pm in reply to: 3d Printing with Tinyg ( rotational axis A trouble ) #10866yawstickMemberIt seems like you may be on to something with the a axis getting too big… unlike the other axis that go back to home or at least near to it… sounds like your a axis just keeps getting bigger and bigger. I’m not a power user or anything but would it be possible to reset the a axis after each stroke so your number doesn’t get so large.
February 22, 2018 at 5:20 pm in reply to: 3d Printing with Tinyg ( rotational axis A trouble ) #10859yawstickMemberIs the pump driven by a stepper motor?
February 22, 2018 at 3:58 pm in reply to: 3d Printing with Tinyg ( rotational axis A trouble ) #10857yawstickMemberThat’s a pretty cool project… would be nice to see part of it in normal speed. Curious how often you have to replenish your ceramic paste supply… could it be as simple as a difference in the mix.
yawstickMemberAll in all just getting x and y moving properly was far easier than I anticipated… I look forward to following the G2 on the due as well. I’ve done a lot small projects with arduino but I’m more of a hacker than a programmer. This will be a good opportunity to follow a project using serious programming tools. I had no idea there was such a huge following for the 3d printers and other CNC type projects. I saw the video I think you posted with unbelievably fast motion. Are you still going to be selling the GRBL board and will it work on a due.
yawstickMemberLipo is a lithium polymer battery… they can deliver serious amps… a 22 volt battery but close to 25 when fully charged. I was having some issues with a few of the controls on the firmware that these boards came with. It may have been me all along… but the reset command and the power on and off to the motors and the power management settings did not seem to work as expected…. they seem to be now and disabled evidently means your motors dont run. A rookie mistake it seems 🙂
yawstickMemberDoes the v9 board have the arm processor on board or will it piggyback on the due. I have an arduino due… had it quite a while and have not fooled with it much.
I have an issue and it was the motive for my first post which never appeared but now I have the same issue again. I had the first board working fine and switched from 12 volt to a 24 volt very large Lipo I had on hand and dont think it was related to the voltage change but dont really know. After changing voltage the board ran just a very short time and the motors stopped moving… everything seemed ok but just no longer would run the motors. I ordered another board because I thought I may have damaged that one but reflashing it cured the problem. When I got the new board I reflashed it to the edge so it would be the same as the other one… it too ran only a short bit and stopped moving the motors. Have reflashed several times since but still wont move the motors…. though everything seems to be working.
yawstickMemberDoh….. found the logo
yawstickMemberA little voltage makes a huge difference… got the 24 volt power supply running at 27.5 volts and the driver board is as cool as a cucumber…. getting 150 IPM I think is about the max usable.
Where do you get the gcode for the chilli pepper thing that first loaded up.
- This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by yawstick.
yawstickMemberI did hook up the nema 23’s briefly on a 12 volt power supply…. very hot very quick… I will be using 24 volts on the machine initially and will definitely have a cooling fan. I have a couple of used ones already…. 120 volts ac… will probably just run it continuously or control it via a relay.
Very little run time with the new firmware but already noticed quite improved functionality.
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