Juwalla

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  • October 5, 2014 at 1:46 am in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6845
    Juwalla
    Member

    Here are my issue with updating the FW. The Wiki says to user AVRdude and to get it from GitHub. The link is provided but when you follow the link to
    GitHub the page has 2 folders and 3 files. Nowhere do I see how or what exactly to download. I have no clue which file to download and there are no instructions on your wiki or on GitHub. (I understand that GitHub is not your responsibility, but is more of a repository.) This is probably due to my own ignorance or inexperience with GitHub. I don’t mind learning something on my own or doing a significant amount of research or reading when I can find the information I need. Can someone either explain it to me or point me to a place where I can learn for myself? Please.

    I wanted to point out something about your wiki. I get a little confused with all the irrelevant links. On the page where the FW update instructions are, The paragraph labeled “Flashing TinyG (Firmware Updates)” there is a link at the end of the paragraph with the words “Updating TinyG Firmware” that is a link to the page I am already on. I have noticed that there are many places in the Wiki that are like this and a few other redundant links here or there as well. What is the functional purpose for this? I understand that the Wiki is also under development and that this “feature” may be how you guys keep track of things in some way or it may be a feature of GitHub that you have no control over. I get turned around when I try to follow the different links in an effort to understand the instructions I am trying to follow.

    I will start a new thread to address my relevant mechanical issues. I now have different issues since I first posted. My Z-axis is acting kinda crazy now. I will update my firmware, re-configure TinyG, and test for the same issues before I post again in regards to any problems.

    October 4, 2014 at 12:03 am in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6840
    Juwalla
    Member

    OK, I was feeling a little confident and went ahead and ran the same job as before. The 6″ diameter circle I mentioned above. I think TinyG just likes to waste my money. =)

    So the first pocket was looking good and the second started off good, then towards the end I could tell that it was not cutting the pocket symmetrical to the first. I have no idea if it lost a step or what, but the second circle was offset to the left about 1/8th inch.

    If I configure the machine and it comes out correct 5 out of 5 times then run a job and the job goes south, how do you trouble shoot that?

    Well lookey there!!!!!!!!! The POS Inventables drive pulley screws (well one of them to be exact) came out at some point. Nothing I like more than making myself look like a JACKASS! I wont make that mistake again. By that mistake I mean the pulley screws, not the making myself look stupid. I do that quite often it seems.

    I’ll leave everything the way it was in the above post as an example for others and to humble myself. Feel free to share and have a laugh on me.

    Here is an addition to the “he’s got a screw loose issue.” I found the missing pulley screw hidden under the little tab that holds the belt. If anyone else has a screw loose they might find it there as well.

    • This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Juwalla.
    • This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Juwalla.
    October 3, 2014 at 11:19 pm in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6839
    Juwalla
    Member

    I am not sure why the X $tr is different than Y, but it is. I was thinking that they would be the same since they are all Nema 23 with the same pulleys and belts. My only guess is that the belt tension could be different but it doesn’t feel different when I tug on the belts a bit. I have everything in my garage that is not climate controlled and the temperature has been fluctuating a bit. I had to tighten them during the middle of summer, but they don’t seem to be to tight now that it is cooling down a little. I am going to do the whole thing again just in case I overlooked something.
    I have pictures of the process if that would help but I am not sure how to upload them to the post. I see the img button, but it wants a url and I don’t have them uploaded anywhere.

    I am pretty positive that the Z-axis is not binding. I can run the fast (manual) homing in tgFX with no issues. Doing the normal speed homing doesn’t have any issues either.

    October 3, 2014 at 8:42 am in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6829
    Juwalla
    Member

    No worries. I thought you meant $zvm and $zfr but I wanted to make sure I wasn’t over looking something.

    It seemed to be correct with a small square so I tried drawing a larger one to see if there was a difference. I followed the commands that were suggested except I changed the numbers. G0x100, g0y100, g0x0, g0y0.

    To be fair, I did notice that I hit the letter “o” instead of the number “0” at times. I did confirm that I was entering the correct command when it didn’t move at times. I also tried g0x-10, g0z10, and g0z-10 just trying to familiarize myself with commands. The Z-axis commands seem to fail more than the X and Y axis commands. I checked the connection to the board to make sure it was not a loose wire or two. Like I said before the Z-axis failed more often than the other two. The board lights up like it is receiving the command but nothing happens.

    I think I have some of the settings correct now. Here is what I changed last night.
    $1tr=39.5
    $2tr=39.75
    $3tr=39.75

    $zvm=800
    $zfr=800

    Switched CoolTerm to CTS/RTS
    Verified TGfx version is 3625

    I did not update the FW since it was suggested that it wouldn’t make a difference.

    I ran the same job to see the difference in cutting. I have to see how changes affect the operation. I am visually oriented when it comes to understanding mechanical things. I did get a 6″ diameter this time but I screwed up something on the CAD/CAM side that caused problems. I’m getting there thanks to your help and recommendations. Thank you

    October 2, 2014 at 10:35 pm in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6826
    Juwalla
    Member

    Limit switches are $xsn and $xsx for each axis correct?
    If so then yes they are disabled.

    Yes, $ej is 0.

    October 2, 2014 at 9:53 pm in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6821
    Juwalla
    Member

    Reading through the posts again taking notes I realized that cmcgrath5035 says…
    “Flow Control – tinyG will work with Xon/Xoff or RTS/CTS. I’d suggest stick with Xon/Xoff as long as tgFX is out of the picture.”

    But before that chmr says….
    Flow control: Yes, tgfx sets $ex=2. Rightfully so, because RTS/CTS is the easiest and most effective type of flow control to use. Just set Coolterm options to also use CTS, save settings, and be done with it.

    So which is it?
    This is just like reading the wiki! Confusing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    chmr, you said…..
    “When you’re happy with X, continue with Y (motors 2 and 3) and finally Z (reduce $4vm and $4fr; $4tr above seems to be correct for stock machine, but not if you have an acme screw upgrade; might also want to experiment with different $4mi values).”

    What is $4vm $ $4fr I don’t see either of these when I query the settings with $$ or when i look on the Wiki. I am guessing “velocity max” and “feed rate”? I see that for $Z but not $4. Reduce it to what, and why?

    • This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Juwalla.
    • This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Juwalla.
    October 2, 2014 at 9:19 pm in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6820
    Juwalla
    Member

    I get it. You have to press the reset button each time. This will take ages!

    October 2, 2014 at 9:13 pm in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6819
    Juwalla
    Member

    Ok, I am in coolterm typing the commands you guys suggested but when I type the command (i double check) nothing happens so I type again (double checking) and it moves. Sometimes it moves sometimes it doesn’t. I even tried copying and pasting the same command with the same results. I double checked my settings in coolterm to ensure they match your Wiki. What am I doing wrong? The lights on TinyG insinuate that it is receiving the command each time but it doesn’t move each time.

    October 2, 2014 at 12:29 pm in reply to: Getting really F'n frustrated #6817
    Juwalla
    Member

    cmcgrath5035,

    The OS is Windows 7 64-bit. The settings I posted were setting that I just tried through TGfx. It was “ril3ys Shapeoko dual Y config”. Before I tried “RIL3YS” settings I had the standard or default Shapeoko settings and experienced the same problem. Meaning, I had the X and Y axis settings at $tr=36.54. The X and Y motors are Nema 23 from Inventables. I will update the FW this afternoon and try to download the newest TGfx.I will try your G commands as well, but I am not very familiar with doing it that way. Thank you for the help.

    CHMR,

    Thank you for the response as well. I have read both of the JSON pages that you referenced. For me, it might as well be a different language because I don’t get it. But,I do get that I don’t need it now. The Wiki is highly suggestive that you need to use JSON for TinyG to work properly.

    Why do I not need the most recent FW update?

    I have tried updating the FW with TGFX. I doesn’t work. TGfx doesn’t even know that there is a new FW version. I will double check to see if I have version 3625.
    Speaking of FW updates and losing configuration settings…… Is there a way to export or save your settings before and a way to import them after? There was a forum post where someone said they wrote a script for that but I don’t know how to apply it.

    I will forget CamBam for now as you suggest. The problem is I have no clue how to operate the machine with “G” commands and TGfx has cost me too much in broken bits for me to trust it. I have been moving the machine manually to move it into position. I know that ChiliPeppr is another option but it is way over my head, and there are no instructions for dummies either.Yes, I watched the youtube videos.

    “Flow control: Yes, tgfx sets $ex=2. Rightfully so, because RTS/CTS is the easiest and most effective type of flow control to use. Just set Coolterm options to also use CTS, save settings, and be done with it.”

    This is confusing to me because the Wiki instructs you to ALWAYS make sure you are using XON/XOFF.

    That link tells me what you said about flow control. But later you are told differently. Of course I cannot find it now. I rarely get to the same page twice without hours of searching and reading. I know you guys are working on it but Holy Hell i’m ready for it to be finished.

    Your link for basic configuration does a good job of defining commands but not a configuration process or methodology. Or I need to send TinyG back because it is way above my understanding.

    I do have the Acme screw upgrade but I have not installed it yet because I have orders for jobs that I need to run. I had no idea it would take this long to get it to work. I refuse to hook the Gshield back up again until I know if I can get TinyG to work or not. Do you suggest installing the Acme screw upgrade first or wait until everything is configured? I’m sure upgrading after will mean that I have to reconfigure the Z axis again.

    Thanks for the tip about the Shapeoko wiki. I remembered reading somewhere that the TinyG is completely different from Gshield in regards to GRBL. I have been trying to stick to your wiki as best I can.

    Will the configuration settings be the same for TinyG as the were for my Gshield?
    Meaning will the number for Travel per revolution work the same on both. I know that they are called different things depending on which board you are configuring but the math should be the same correct?

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