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JeromyReno
MemberYeah I’m still going to buy one to test what it’s capable of. I love the single board complete package of the tinyG though. I program massive machines at work and laugh at the complexity of some of the systems that this tinyG can replace.
Worked on a 10′ x 25’waterjet of a friends and it had a full networking tower with motor controllers, power supplies, old ass computer with a parallel port and the worst GUI ever, very Atari like. All to control 3 nema 34’s with pretty short bodies, probably 2A motors. When I told him we could put on a single board and power supply and he could run it off his old surface pro with chillippr (the name didn’t help sell the idea) he looked at me like I was crazy. At worst if we couldn’t run strong nema 23’s inplace of the small 34’s we could use those clear step servos that replace steppers and his machine would actually be more powerful haha. The future is now wooo!
Memberoh damn that’s pretty cheap for a quality stepper driver. i got all caught up in the moment and designed a board and sent it out to a board house to get made haha. it’s just a breakout for a DRV8825 but if it doesn’t work out well i’ll swoop up one of those in a heart beat.
thanks again for all the help.
do you think leaving the driver on the board will cause any problems when running another driver parallel on the same step and dir line. im sure trying is the only way to find out haha.
MemberOh damn that’s a great idea! I was going to remove the whole chip and put it on a breakout board and run little wires back to the pads but I have some small pololu drivers that I can just run off the headers. I’m so greatful for your insight! Thanks again!!
I might make a little YouTube video on it cause I haven’t found much on how to build a cnc plasma and think it could help others along the way, so you will get to see it unfold or go up in smoke haha
I have 4 tinyG’s on my Shapeoko’s and and other projects but I might order another just in case haha.
Jeromy.
Memberim not sure if it’s just my pc but i got it all to work by erasing the whole chip, setting the fuses, then the lock bits, then loaded the boot loader, then burned the tinyg.hex from my avr programmer. the response i get when using the firmware up-loader on chilipepper and the stand alone up-loader is that is cant make a serial connection, but i think that might be because i have one usb port on my surface pro and use it with ftdi and spjs. i think that is confuses it.
its all loaded and communicating now. i think i just need to get my settings right cause chilipepper communicates with it and it looks like its running but the machine isn’t moving. almost there though!!
note for others with this problem: if you are burning the xboot.hex and the tinyg.hex to your chip with a programmer be sure to uncheck the box that says erase chip before programming when loading the tinyg.hex, it’s checked by default and will erase the boot loader right after you install it. i did it the first 3~4 times i loaded it cause i wasn’t really thinking about it.
Memberdamn mine just joined this club too. i should have just stuck with my old firm ware. i installed the bootloader and that went all fine and dandy. now it stays in the boot loader permanently with the flashing light
Membercan i have someone email me the xboot.hex file, or direct me to a drop box that has it. when i try to get it from the link in the wiki chrome says it has a privacy error and i cant get it. i put a tinyg i have had forever on my shapeoko 3 but i want to get it up to date.
MemberThat’s so rad. Good work
MemberVery nice! Looks great!
MemberI know you said you have had good outcome with the beaglebone running the system. I was just looking at the udoo, it’s a raspberry pie/arduino hybrid with a quad processor and 1g of ram. And a gbrl shield would mount right too it. I already have the beaglebone black and tinyG so I’ll keep pushing on with it. But that’s a pretty rad option for future builds.
Memberthese look like the biggest thing i can find with under 3a per winding. i’ll think i’ll order them tonight and start on some mounts when they come in. it’s kind of nice cause i already have a set of 1/4 flex couplers that are very nice.
yo thanks for all the help too. i usually just drop into things and learn by trial and error. this we expedite that ten fold.
MemberThat’s great to hear. I picked up the beagle bone already but have only messed with it a bit. Love them though! Hm modding it sounds interesting. I’ll try the 23’s but I’m open to investing more into it. It’s something I have wanted to build forever.
MemberDang I’m really striking out here haha. I just don’t want to under power my machine. If all else fails double the x and y up with 23’s if its not cutting it. The 1/2 10 two start should have some good pushing force though I would think. I really like the smaller fully contained controller idea with the G code interpreter all in a single package. Get a beaglebone black to run it with and the simplicity and portability would be amazing
But I might have to re weigh my options. If my 5×5 takes 6 passes to cut 3/4″ wood I might have to change my original plans
MemberThis 23 has 425nm with 2.5a. That’s pretty good and verry safe
It would be nice if I could get the extra 145nm for an extra 1a.
NEMA23 570oz/in 5A 3/8” Dual Shaft Stepper Motor (KL23H2100-50-4B)
MemberOh I see, maybe I’ll run with the nema 24’s. they seem like they are close to the 23’s only with around 450nm. I’m sure it’s more than enough to push my aluminum gantry. I plan on running two motors on the Y anyhow.
Thanks for the heads up
It’s a work in progress. Glad this forum is here.
MemberI think I’m going to pick up som 1200oz/in motors and run them in series. The data sheet says its only 4.2 amp draw in that configuration. I would guess with proper cooling the tiny g should be able to pull it off fine.
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