Basic testing of grblshield

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  • September 12, 2012 at 8:04 am #3475
    keypad
    Member

    I order my board sometime last year (see post inquire when ther would be in stock) and have just recently gotten around to assemble the parts and test it. Here what I running: arduino UNO r3, grblshield v2 w/heat sink, 3 – nam 17 stepper motors, meanswell sp-300-24 power supply, and 2 pc (Mac & windows) with Universal Gcodersender 1.0.3.

    I’ve flash the arduino with grbl 7d & 8 to test with. Used the default setting & shapeoko setting to test the connect. 2 of the stepper motors (x & y button label) will spin clockwise with “+” & “-” button, and will not spin counterclockwise. However the y motor is actually the z label motor on the grblshield. The actually y motor on the shield doesn’t spin, it hums, this maybe due to the pot needing adjusted. I haven’t touched these yet due to there sensativity. Nor have I made the shapeoko mod to the board yet, eventually this will happen but first I’d like to make sure this is operating correct on the bench.

    Base upon what I’ve read, it seem there might be an issue with some of the v2 grblshield? I have try swapping motors around and moving the winding to make sure it wasn’t a fault motor. Even switch pc, to see if I was doing something incorrectly. So now I’m open to suggestion on what to try next?

    September 12, 2012 at 9:24 am #3476
    alden
    Member

    Try setting the pots to their middle position (12:00 position) and repeat. That should be the position they were set before shipment. Check the pots to see if they are damaged. Do the screw slots look “clean”, or  are they stripped, which is usually an indication that the pot was damaged.

    If I understand correctly the Z axis “swap” sounds like software, not hardware. I’m not completely sure what you experienced. You enter a Y movement and you get the Z motor moving? You might try driving grbl directly from Coolterm and taking Gcode sender out of the picture. One less variable. Also, if you have an oscilloscope or a logic analyzer check that the arduino is delivering the proper step and direction signals.

    We have seen only 1 unit that went out (out of 100’s) that had a manufacturing issue, but that doesn’t mean it can’t happen. They are all fully tested for all motor movement in both directions before shipment.

    September 12, 2012 at 3:09 pm #3477
    keypad
    Member

    Try setting the pots to their middle position (12:00 position) and repeat. That should be the position they were set before shipment. Check the pots to see if they are damaged. Do the screw slots look “clean”, or are they stripped, which is usually an indication that the pot was damaged.

    I’ll check this when i get home tonight. If they are set this way prior to shipment then they should still be that way since i haven’t touched them yet.

    If I understand correctly the Z axis “swap” sounds like software, not hardware. I’m not completely sure what you experienced. You enter a Y movement and you get the Z motor moving? You might try driving grbl directly from Coolterm and taking Gcode sender out of the picture. One less variable. Also, if you have an oscilloscope or a logic analyzer check that the arduino is delivering the proper step and direction signals.

    Is there some reference for how to do this with Coolterm?

    September 12, 2012 at 9:08 pm #3478
    alden
    Member

    There is no reference but it’s simple. Get Coolterm for windows or mac from Roger Meier’s software page. Connect to your grbl/Arduino via the Options/Serial Port Options dialog. Grbl speaks at 9600 baud. Use re-scan serial ports to find your port. Hit Connect. Hit the CR a few times. You should get “ok” from grbl. They you can enter $ commands and Gcode lines.

    September 13, 2012 at 12:49 am #3481
    keypad
    Member

    Update: I have try using coolterm, same results as before. I’ve adjusted the pot(s), only affects the 2 working axis as before. Basically I back to where I started.

    September 13, 2012 at 9:55 pm #3493
    keypad
    Member

    Try setting the pots to their middle position (12:00 position) and repeat. That should be the position they were set before shipment. Check the pots to see if they are damaged. Do the screw slots look “clean”, or  are they stripped, which is usually an indication that the pot was damaged.

    I’ve double check the pots and they are not damage & are clean looking.

    Unfortunatly I don’t have the setup to check signal. Any other suggestions?

    September 13, 2012 at 10:42 pm #3494
    keypad
    Member

    I’ve pulled an r2 arduino from another project and flash it with grbl8, same results as the r3. Y & Z flip flop and z won’t spin.

    September 14, 2012 at 1:20 pm #3495
    alden
    Member

    It would be good to get some solid data on all this. Can you please run the following commands from coolterm and post the results for each:

    – First hit reset to make sure the board is in a known state

    – Hit $ to get your grbl settings and post the results

    – Then run the following gcode lines and let me know if the motors are stalled, humming, or running, and if running is the motor running in the correct direction. It can be useful to put some tape on the motor shaft like a flag so you can see the direction of rotation. Also, in each case does the green light turn on:

    – g0 x10

    – g0 x0

    – g0 y10

    – g0 y0

    – g0 z10

    – g0 z0

    – g1 f200 x10

    – g1 f200 x0

       – g1 f200 y10

    – g1 f200 y0

       – g1 f200 z10

    – g1 f200 z0

    Now, Can you explain to me what is happening with Y and Z flip flop? Does this mean that when you enter the gcode line “G0Y10” and the Z axis moves, and you enter G0Z10 and the Y axis moves? I cannot figure out how the grblshield would do this. The above should help confirm that this is what’s happening (or not).

    Also, do you mean an R2 and R3 Arduino, or R2 and R3 grblshield?

    Thanks
    ALden

     

    September 14, 2012 at 4:37 pm #3496
    keypad
    Member

    Also, do you mean an R2 and R3 Arduino, or R2 and R3 grblshield?

    Arduino UNO r2 & r3

    Now, Can you explain to me what is happening with Y and Z flip flop? .

    By flip flop, I mean they swap positions. If I send a command for y to move, z moves instead and vise versa. With one exception, z doesn’t spin/rotate. It hums. I swap motors around, all 3 motor work find. Even move the checked the cables from the shield to the motor.

    Does this mean that when you enter the gcode line “G0Y10″ and the Z axis moves, and you enter G0Z10 and the Y axis moves? I cannot figure out how the grblshield would do this. The above should help confirm that this is what’s happening (or not)

    Yes that’s what it is doing. I wont have time until later this weekend to run the above test, but I will post it when I do.

    The pot are set to 12 o’clock.

    September 16, 2012 at 12:49 pm #3510
    keypad
    Member

    Hit $ to get your grbl settings and post the results

    $0 = 755.91 (steps/mm x)
    $1 = 755.91 (steps/mm y)
    $2 = 755.91 (steps/mm z)
    $3 = 30 (microseconds step pulse)
    $4 = 500.00 (mm/min default feed rate)
    $5 = 500.00 (mm/min default seek rate)
    $6 = 0.10 (mm/arc segment)
    $7 = 84 (step port invert mask. binary = 01010100)
    $8 = 50.00 (acceleration in mm/sec^2)
    $9 = 0.05 (cornering junction deviation in mm)
    ‘$x=value’ to set parameter or just ‘$’ to dump current settings

    Then run the following gcode lines and let me know if the motors are stalled, humming, or running, and if running is the motor running in the correct direction. It can be useful to put some tape on the motor shaft like a flag so you can see the direction of rotation. Also, in each case does the green light turn on:

    – g0 x10 -x spin clockwise

    – g0 x0 -x spin clockwise

    – g0 y10 -y spin clockwise

    – g0 y0 -y spin clockwise

    – g0 z10 -z hums

    – g0 z0 -z hums

    – g1 f200 x10 -x clockwise, louder rotation

    – g1 f200 x0 -x clockwise, louder rotation

    – g1 f200 y10 -x clockwise, louder rotation

    – g1 f200 y0 -x clockwise, louder rotation

    – g1 f200 z10 -z hums

    – g1 f200 z0 -z hums

    September 17, 2012 at 7:16 am #3511
    alden
    Member

    Both X and Y motors turn, but only in one direction. Z does not turn. Your Y and Z are not switched, it would appear.

    What motors are you running? I have gotten bad motors before from surplus (once).

    Also, can you exchange the Z and Y motors and see if the non-rotating motor moves to Y?

    Since you have a grblshield v2 then you had to make connectors for the motor. Did you use the connector kit or make these on your own? Can you make sure the crimp connections you made in the connectors are good? If one of the contacts does not make connection then the symptoms would be as you say. If you have an ohmmeter you should be able to see a small number of ohms (like 4 or 8 depending on your motors) between each of the motor windings. THey are arranged on the plug as illustrated here:

    https://www.synthetos.com/wiki/index.php?title=Using_the_grblShield#Wiring_the_Motors

     

    September 17, 2012 at 9:57 am #3512
    keypad
    Member

    Both X and Y motors turn, but only in one direction. Z does not turn. Your Y and Z are not switched, it would appear.

    each motor is connect to proper y,z,x connection.

    What motors are you running? I have gotten bad motors before from surplus (once).

    this info is list in the original post, nema 17.

    Also, can you exchange the Z and Y motors and see if the non-rotating motor moves to Y?

    see posting , states all motor work.

    Since you have a grblshield v2 then you had to make connectors for the motor. Did you use the connector kit or make these on your own?

    I’ve purchased your connector and crimp & solder the pins to the wire.

    Can you make sure the crimp connections you made in the connectors are good?

    again in the same posting: , states all motor work. state’s wire have been checked, meaning i move them from one x to y to z with and without the motor.

    I’m reasonably sure it is the GRBLshield since its the only thing i haven’t change at this point.

    September 17, 2012 at 12:09 pm #3513
    alden
    Member

    Please contact us at the synthetos email address for a board swap.

    September 17, 2012 at 8:11 pm #3514
    Riley
    Keymaster

    keypad,  we are sending you a different board.  However just to make it clear when someone asks “what motor do you have?” NEMA 17 is not a valid answer.
    You are giving us the size of the motor.  Not what “kind” or motor.  Each stepper motor has specific characteristics as well.. Step angle, holding torque, etc.

    I understand it can be frustrating if your having issues but at the same time we are asking these questions to try to help you 🙂

    ril3y

    September 18, 2012 at 8:20 am #3515
    alden
    Member

    One thing – when you send the old v2 board back can you please also include the motor connectors you will not be needing anymore?

    The new v3 board you are receiving has screw terminals instead of the quick-release connectors. So you will want to cut the connectors off the motor wires, strip them and terminate them directly at the terminal blocks. It’s the cut off ends I am interested in for diagnostic purposes. If you had problems making these connections I’d like to know so we can help out other people that might have the same problem.

    Thanks!

     

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