One of the components broke off the board

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  • November 26, 2014 at 5:40 pm #7027
    raoulvh
    Member

    Hi there,

    Today one of the tiny SMD components broke off. I think something hit it. I’m not sure what the component is, I guess a resistor or something. It reads C33 next to it and it’s on the row next to the Motor 3 chip.

    Luckily I saw it laying next to the board. Is there a way to get it back on? Could you solder it or would you need to reflow it or something? And when putting it back on, does the direction matter?

    I hope someone can help me out what the part is and what I could do to fix this.

    Thanks in advance!

    November 26, 2014 at 7:06 pm #7031
    cmcgrath5035
    Moderator

    I make a guess that C33 is a SMD chip capacitor.

    A good reflow solder joint is very robust, so if the device got knocked off mechanically, it could be the device to pwb joint, or could be a de-lamination of the capacitor’s ceramic body from the metalized end cap. Probably not a good idea to attempt re-soldering the old component.
    You may be able to tack on a small leaded component of the correct capacitance.

    To more fully attempt, you need to determine what tinyG version you have.
    For reference, look here:

    From the correct schematic you can determine what capacitance is required.

    From there you can see the different versions of V7 and V8.

    November 27, 2014 at 4:43 pm #7036
    cmcgrath5035
    Moderator

    I took a quick look at one V8 version schematic.
    C33 on that one is a 0.22uF cap bypassing the +3.3V Vcc bus to ground.
    It is one of several 0.22uF caps in parallel with a 220uF electrolytic bypassing the Vregulator output that provides Vcc from the input voltage.

    It is typical good hardware design to distribute small high frequency caps around a design.

    Unless you have a good fine tip iron and are good at it, I would not try replacing this, just give you tinyG a try.

    If you encounter erratic operation, then perhaps you need to try and replace it, but probability says it isn’t essential.

    December 3, 2014 at 3:21 pm #7076
    raoulvh
    Member

    Hi cmcgrath5035,
    Thanks for the quick and useful responses! Sorry I didn’t come back earlier.

    I did encounter erratic operation. One of the Y-axis (the one with the broken cap) didn’t run at quite the same moment as the other Y-axis motor. In fact, it looked like it did one or two steps backwards first, before running in the right direction. That caused the X-axis to run a bit crooked everytime I gave a command for the Y-axis.

    I went to the local electronics store and bought a leaded cap with similar capacitance and after some fiddling I managed to solder it onto the board (I soldered the cap to some wires first and soldered the wires to the board after that).

    Anyway, the ShapeOko runs smoothly again!! Very Happy 🙂

    Thanks again!

    December 3, 2014 at 7:42 pm #7077
    cmcgrath5035
    Moderator

    Wow, I would not have expected that result, but good results are good results, right?
    Happy cutting

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